Adventures

Las Fallas in Valencia

March 23, 2018

Last week my friend Elaine mentioned she was taking a one-day bus trip to Valencia, to see the Las Fallas. After 3 1/2 years in Espana, I had yet to experience this Fiesta, so of course I cheerfully announced, “I’ll go with you!”

For my non-Spaniard followers, let me briefly explain.  Las Fallas is a festival to celebrate the arrival of Spring.   Dating back to 1934.
Each neighbourhood has a ‘Casal Faller’ (group), who spend the entire year planning their Ninot. Which are ‘puppets’ made of wood, cardboard, wax, paper-mache, styrofoam or plastic. 
During the Fiesta, one Ninot is voted to be saved, which goes on to live in one of the Fallero Museums. The rest will be burnt!!
On Saint Joseph’s Day (aka Father’s Day) is The Crema (Burning), which is to release the Ninots from their satirical and critical burdens.
Please bear in mind, these Ninots can be HUGE! I am talking 16 to 24 meters tall!! And in the middle of a very populated city! CRAZY

While I was registering for the bus online, I did see the words ‘student exchange’……..but Hey, if Elaine didn’t care, why should I? And to be honest, in my excitement I choose to ignore it – I simply paid the 23 Euros.

On Friday a WhatsApp Group Chat appeared on my phone, with 165 participants. Later in the day we learnt that

“No, there were not 163 students signed up for this trip.” Phew!! “WhatsApp only allows a maximum of 200 per chat, so there are two groups. We have 355 signed up, with 6 buses.”…..

 

Our 8:00 am Saturday departure was of course delayed (by 45 minutes). But the announcements made it all worth while.

“We do not stop to pee. There is only 1 stop half way, and that is all. Your vagina is going to be exploding. Hope you brought a bottle. Pee in your bottle.”….

 

What they failed to tell us, was that at the halfway stop, EVERYONE must get off the bus. So, into the pouring rain we went…. along with ALL the people from the Other 57 Buses!!!

For the second half of the ride, a portable speaker was placed directly above my seat, blasting rap & techno music.  Have you even listened to some of the lyrics? Absolutely shocking!
At this point, I did have to put a ‘strike’ on Elaine’s file. What on earth had we gotten ourselves into?!

Once in Valencia, we hurried along with the crowd to catch the Mascleta in the town square.

We stood in the rain along with a million other people………turns out a Mascleta is a Firecracker Parade (not fire works, but crackers). So, while we heard the thunderous noise (as did people two villages away) there was absolutely Nothing to see….

When we FINALLY broke free of the ‘swarming salmon’, we aimlessly wandered around checking out a few Ninots. They are truly amazing, and huge beyond belief!

Had we been more aware of who is considered the most corrupt or contentious, we may have recognized more caricatures. However, it was easy to identify this guy.

Paella is the world-famous dish of Valencia, and after waiting half an hour in the rain for our table, we were finally seated (albeit amongst broken glass on the floor). We proceeded to have delicious appetizers, followed by the most horrific paella Ever!

A few hours later we tried their most famous drink ‘Aqua de Valencia’; Cava, orange juice, vodka, and ginger… “dos mas por favor”

A bit later in the day, we discovered women & children in traditional dress, and decided to follow them.

Turns out we were fortunate to find the very start of the Flower Parade.

What we did not know at the time, was that it goes on for 6 hours!…

It was quite spectacular though, watching all the different groups , each with their own band, delivering their bouquets to the Virgin (who happens to be 14 meters tall).

Over the course of two days (Yes, there will be another parade tomorrow) they will completely cover the Virgin.  We are told, she does NOT get burnt, but rather is left to wilt in the sunshine.

Thankfully I was clever enough to make us a dinner reservation in advance, at my favourite Valencian restaurant, La Pappardella.  This restaurant is very easy to find, as it is on your left, as you gaze upon the Cathedral entrance. (For someone as directionally challenged as myself, this is golden). However, thanks to the never-ending Procession… there would be no crossing Plaza de Virgin.

It was then that I had DejaVu, to May 2015 with my daughter Emma. This time however, we were smart enough to wind our way through the tiny side streets, to arrive just in time for our 10:30 dinner. Which was delicious! As was the lovely bottle of Chianti Classico vino.

At 01:30, Plaza de Virgin was Finally accessible. As we crossed it, the fragrance was absolutely breath taking.

We mingled amongst the locales, as we slowly made our way back to the buses.

And, yes, I know; I am not to touch anything. But, the lure of the fabrics was just too much to resist…, and besides, my hands were clean.

As we walked away from Old Towne, we discovered many more Ninots.  No wonder my friends, G & S, said “they attended for 3 days last year, and did not see them all.”

We also came across several Street Parties,  which were just getting started.

 

Alas, we came upon our bus. (Not bad navigating I would say). Upon recalling the morning announcements, I made a last-minute decision to squat behind a planter….

There were two requirements to board the bus: 1) show your wristband 2) graciously accept the pre-offered plastic bag…

As we settled into our front row window seats, it became obvious we had both planned ahead – ear plugs, sleeping pill, and a sleep mask.  Announcements followed.

“Please use the baggie. Please use the baggie. We can not stop. Please use the baggie – for anything you need.”

 

So, in summation of our 24-hour Road Trip:

  • 714 kilometers round trip
  • 10 hours on the bus
  • 18 kilometers walked
  • 267 messages in the group chat

How does one even Grade this???

 

  • PS:   Yes I know some of my photos are dark, and that two of them are sideways  (for which I apologize).. I have been struggling for days to get this fixed…(but wanted to get this story out before it became old news).  Thank you for you patience, and I shall get better at this. 

For your continued enjoyment of The Fallas, I have included a few links (click on the British Flag for English (if there is one) ….and it may, or may not work).

http://fallasfromvalencia.com/en/home/
http://www.fallas.com/
https://www.donquijote.org/spanish-culture/holidays/fallas/
Or simply Google ‘Images Las Fallas 2018’

 

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  1. Can’t believe I missed this – a great piece of writing and so funny! It makes me want to go next year and even though you even make the bus journey sound like fun I may skip that bit for the train and a room booked months in advance. Xx

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